The truth about hyaluronic acid: not all molecules are created equal (and why ours is more effective)

Hyaluronic acid is a hot topic in the world of cosmetics. It has become one of the most popular ingredients for moisturizing and plumping the skin. But behind this single name lie different shapes and sizes of molecules, which do not all act in the same way. Understanding this nuance is essential for choosing a truly effective skincare product.

What is hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule that occurs naturally in our bodies. More than 50% of the hyaluronic acid in the body is found in the skin, specifically in the dermis.
Its superpower? It is a humectant that can retain water like a sponge. Thanks to this ingredient, the skin remains supple, hydrated, and plump. As we age, our stores diminish, leading to loss of elasticity, wrinkles, and dryness. Hyaluronic acid-based skincare products come to the rescue.

Not all hyaluronic acid molecules are created equal.

The effectiveness of hyaluronic acid depends primarily on its molecular weight:

• High molecular weight hyaluronic acid
  Remains on the surface, forms a protective film, smoothes and moisturizes immediately.
• Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid
  Thanks to its small size, it penetrates deeper into the dermis. It promotes long-lasting hydration and helps to visibly reduce wrinkles.

A good skincare product does not use “a single hyaluronic acid,” but a synergy of molecular sizes that act at different levels of the skin.

At Valyxir, we have chosen a triple 1.5% hyaluronic acid solution, which combines three forms of hyaluronic acid with different molecular weights. This synergy guarantees perfect hydration of the skin, both on the surface and deep down. The result: a treatment that ideally combines visible anti-aging properties with effective and long-lasting hydration.

From animal extraction to biotechnology: the ethical production of hyaluronic acid

In the past, hyaluronic acid was extracted directly from rooster combs and other animal tissues. This method was not only ethically questionable, but also inconsistent and prone to contamination.

Thanks to advances in biotechnology, a real revolution has taken place: the production of hyaluronic acid through microbial fermentation. In practical terms, certain strains of harmless bacteria are cultivated in bioreactors under strictly controlled conditions. By metabolizing sugars, they produce pure hyaluronic acid, identical to that naturally present in human skin.

Valyxir uses hyaluronic acid produced by fermentation and certified by ECOCERT according to the COSMOS standard.

Conclusion

Hyaluronic acid is much more than just a moisturizing agent: it is a versatile and universal ingredient that can visibly improve the signs of skin aging while maintaining optimal hydration. Suitable even for sensitive skin, it can be combined with almost any other cosmetic active ingredient without any problems, making it an essential ally in any skincare routine. By choosing a high-quality formula that combines different molecular weights, you can offer your skin a complete solution: immediate hydration and genuine anti-aging action.

References

Bay, EY., Topal, IO. (2023). Aging Skin and Anti-aging Strategies. Explor Res Hypothesis Med. 8(3):269-279. doi: 10.14218/ERHM.2022.00030.

He, X., Wan, F., Su, W., & Xie, W. (2023). Research Progress on Skin Aging and Active Ingredients. Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 28(14), 5556. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules28145556

K. Koestline, (2025) Biotechnology in Beauty: The Future of Formulation – A Cosmetic Chemist’s Perspective, KKT Innovation Labs, Ocoee, FL USA. https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/biotechnology-beauty-future-formulation-cosmetic-klbbf/